Warp ‘n Weft founder Sagrika Rai takes us through everything you need to know before going for a Banarasi sari for your big day…
Banarasi saris have occupied a special place in the closets of Indian women for hundreds and thousands of years. Opulent and exquisite, these handloom beauties make for perfect wedding wear and can be passed down generations as precious heirlooms. Celebrities like Deepika Padukone, Anushka Sharma, and Alia Bhatt have, time and again, proved their allegiance to Banarasi weaves.
“Banarasi saris embody the essence of India’s rich heritage in every yarn, hand woven with meticulous detail almost to human skills of perfection,” says Sagrika Rai, the founder and creative director of Indian couture house Warp ‘n Weft.
Established in 1997 by Rai who hails from Banaras, Warp ‘n Weft has played a huge role in preserving the legacy of the handloom over the years and even popularise it around the world.
The brand is at the cusp of launching a wedding wear collection and Rai is, understandably, thrilled to introduce something new in the world of Banarasi handloom.
“Our collection transcends the traditional categories of ‘bridal’ or ‘groom’ attire; it delves deeper into what the eyes can perceive and the environment can feel. Our designs embody the soul of Banaras, viewing the wedding attire from the perspective of bridesmaids and groomsmen, mother and father, alike,” she says.
The popularity of Banarasi saris for brides, and as an on-trend wedding wear option, over the past few years can also be attributed to the rise of eco-conscious and slow fashion. “Today’s brides prioritise their bridal wear considering how, when, and where they invest their money. They like to understand the origin and the ethics followed towards its creation, its repeat value and its timeless fashion quotient. They aim to be both chic and responsible with prudent choices,” says Rai.
The Warp ‘n Weft founder believes that this makes Banarasi saris the perfect choice for brides who want to remain on trend yet opt for something mindful for their big day. “The grace of a handwoven Banarasi sari is not just about the age-old weaving techniques used but also the pattern and jewel colours that eloquently define the bride’s own fashion style. For every bride, there is a perfect Banarasi sari, crafted in rich, jewel-toned hues that enhance her unique personality and celebrate her femininity most exquisitely. It’s truly astounding how six yards of textile drape to add beauty transcending the need for words,” she says, adding, “These saris, crafted from fine threads of silk coated with real silver and gold powder, evoke a desire and contentment of possessing the few and the fine; these resemble rare jewellery pieces in their own right.”
Many brides choose to re-wear their mother or grandmother’s preserved handloom saris to create a beautiful moment in their wedding journey. There are a number of ways you can do that while adding your distinct sense of style to the look. “Styling options are multiple,” says Rai, “You can combine with handwoven dupattas embellished with hand-made tassels as Shalus or Odhnis as your trail. You may complement with fully embroidered blouses and perfect maatha patti and baju band along with your choker of jadau or uncut diamonds. These additions effortlessly elevate the ensemble, reminiscent of royalty.”
If you’re ready to invest in a handloom sari for your trousseau but are still unsure on how to differentiate between an authentic and fake option, Rai has a useful tip. “Look for the perfect imperfections,” she says, “Despite the ease of replication in today’s technical landscape, authentic hand-woven pieces retain a distinctive tactile charm and the human touch evoking the painstaking nuances of the hand-weave.” According to her, threads could delicately emerge from the intricate designs, impressions of the wooden beams, some hand darns to fill up the missing knots of the artisan’s sleight of hand, and subtle colour variations in the natural hand-dyed yarns. These serves as “a significant testament to their handmade creation, showcasing the artisanal beauty inherent to the handloom process.”
So are you ready to invest in your first handloom sari?
Salva Mubarak is the Digital Editor of Manifest. In her free time, she likes to read murder mysteries, discover new KitKat flavours, and rank movie makeovers (not necessarily in that order). View Profile
